| A
Bhutan Adventure
by
Tom Childers
In
early May, I traveled with several other Pathways
folks to Bhutan, a small country sandwiched between
India and Nepal. Bhutan is about the size of Switzerland,
with 650,000 people. It is incredibly mountainous,
with very high Himalayan peaks and passes on the
north, and lowlands in the south. About 80% of
the country is forested, and the Bhutanese have
done a wonderful job of preserving the ecology
of their country. There are few roads, very few
vehicles, and everyone walks everywhere.
But
the amazing thing about Bhutan is how the entire
trip felt like a retreat. Buddhism is integrated
into daily life in simple and profound ways, everywhere
you look. There are monasteries in every valley,
prayer wheels in every village, clusters of prayer
flags everywhere, chortens (sacred sites) along
the road, in the middle of fields, on hillsides.
Almost every house had some of the eight lucky
symbols in Buddhism painted on it. And the people
we met were friendly, open and helpful, the children
smiling and waving. Bhutan is a very poor country,
but the Bhutanese talk about the Gross National
Happiness rather than the Gross National Product.
We
visited more than a dozen monasteries, and saw
monks and nuns everywhere. Some monasteries
were fortresses (called dzongs) built in the
thirteenth century to protect the country from
Tibetan invaders. The dzongs are the seat
of government, and the largest buildings in
the country. Here is an image of the Trongsa
Dzong, one of the largest. You can see
the town of Trongsa behind it, one of the bigger
towns in the country, yet home to only a few
thousand people.
The
temple rooms in the monasteries were incredible,
with sacred images painted everywhere, on every
wall. One eighth-century temple room had the
original wooden floor, and in the spot in the
middle in front of the altar, the floor was
worn in the shape of bare feet. I stood in the
spot, feeling the balls of my feet nestling
into the smooth wood, feeling the many thousands
of people who had stood and bowed to the Buddha
millions of times over more than a thousand
years in that spot.
We
hiked to several wonderful monasteries. On the
way up to a nunnery built on a cliff side, we
met the senior nun while she was walking around
a chorten on the path, spinning the prayer wheels.
One of the people in our party gave her a small
medallion with a picture of the Dali Lama on
one side, and she burst into tears. She showed
us a similar, but very worn, medallion hanging
around her neck, with a picture of the Dali
Lama as a young man. She blessed us and happily
let us take pictures of her. She has one of
the most beautiful faces I have ever seen. You
can see the chorten and the small prayer wheels
behind her on the right side of the picture,
and the cliff face behind that.

On
our last full day, we climbed several thousand
feet to reach Taktsang Lhakhang, the Tiger's
Nest Monastery. This fantastic place is built
into a cliff, twelve thousand feet up in the
Himalayas. The two-hour hike, plus the 800-steps
down and back up to cross the canyon to the
monastery, were well worth the effort. The buildings
are recently restored from a fire, and the decorations
and sacred images were very lovely.

I’m
still digesting everything I've received on
this trip. I got swept by so many feelings that
my meditation practice became really important.
I remember feeling terrified by some of the
protector deity images we encountered in the
temples, and having to find my way back
to center. I remember feeling very lonely and
isolated, gone from my home for three weeks,
and finding stability and presence by connecting
to center. Bhutan has taught me about how I
can center in the face of powerful feelings
and experiences.
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